How do I force a flower bulb?
Narcissus, Paperwhites, and Amaryllis bulbs are the easiest to "force," so maybe the beginner should start with those varieties. They do not require extensive preparation.
"Chilling"
Otherwise Crocus, Hyacinth, Iris or Tulips require a period of "chilling" before they can be pushed to bloom out of season. (Note: flower bulb companies can supply you with pre-chilled bulbs) This chilling is accomplished by keeping the potted bulbs in a dimly lit area at a temperature between a steady 35 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit for a period of 12 to 17 weeks.
Bulbs can be potted (shallow clay pots work best) together in large numbers, packed in a peat based potting mix flat side down. Once potted, moisten the bulbs until water comes out of the drainage hole. With tulips leave the shoot tips poking out above the soil line. Caution: Don’t chill the bulbs in a refrigerator that contains any vegetables or fruits as those foods (especially apples) may release ethylene gas that can damage or even kill bulbs.
Unchilled
In the case of un-chilled bulb types, place the bulbs in soil directly or in a narrow vase that supports them some distance from the bottom of the vase and pour water into the container until it just touches the bulb. Keep them, out of direct sunlight but in a somewhat warm room (approx. 60 degrees). After a couple of weeks or so they should begin to send out roots. At 4 or 5 inches high, they’re ready for the next step.
Replanting
After the chilling period or in the case of Narcissus or Amaryllis bulbs, you should now see that the bulbs have begun to sprout. Re-plant the bulbs in peat based potting mix and place in the warmer (approx. 60 degrees) room with the un-chilled bulbs. Like the others, roots should begin forming in a couple of weeks. When the shoots reach 4 to 5 inches, they’re ready.
At this point the bulbs, chilled and un-chilled can be planted in a good soil mix and placed in direct sunlight. When the bud forms and begins to show color, move the plant to indirect sunlight. These are spring blossoms and they are highly sensitive to too much sun, so keep an eye on their progress. Within a matter of days the buds should open.
Showtime
When the bud opens your winter table becomes a showcase. The entire process is a simple process requiring some attention to the consistency of temperature and light, but there is nothing very complex about "forcing" your bulbs. The biggest trick is timing. Charts are available to indicate proper chilling periods. You can make use of those. Start off with the easy types (Narcissus, Paperwhites, or Amaryllis to get a feel for the process and soon you’ll think nothing of "forcing" bulbs to bloom on your schedule.)